Why do we love Pu-erh tea? Why do many say “Pu-erh is the last stop for a tea person”? In fact, simply from the characteristics of the tea liquor alone, whether raw or ripe, Pu-erh teas possess exceptionally rich and ever-changing layers in the liquor, and, because of their abundant internal substances, the liquor has a distinctly viscous, thick texture.
Today, let us discuss these two aspects of Pu-erh tea liquor together. Whatever feelings and insights you have, feel free to share them in the comments!
For Pu-erh tea, “layers” refers to the changes the liquor undergoes in the drinker’s mouth, as well as the changes between each infusion. This transformation involves the aroma, saliva generation, and returning sweetness mentioned above. The essence of layered complexity lies in change. Whether this change occurs in a sequential, orderly fashion is the key to determining whether a new Pu-erh tea is of high quality.
For Pu-erh tea, whether raw or ripe, good layered complexity is essential. Its aroma must be rich in variation; between each infusion, it must display a progressive, orderly transformation. Taking raw tea as an example, it might begin with floral notes, then gradually shift to fruity aromas, and finally fade to a delicate floral-fruity fragrance.
Moreover, this evolution of aroma must continue to change as the tea ages. Pu-erh is a tea that values post-fermentation and aging. New raw tea needs to transition from initial floral, fruity, and floral-fruity aromas gradually toward aged, old, and ultimately mature fragrances, within which one can distinguish mushroom-like, camphor, and other aroma types.
New ripe tea, on the other hand, needs to evolve from initial sticky rice and ripe fruit aromas toward chestnut, lotus, and eventually aged and mature fragrances. Similarly, its saliva-generating and sweetness-returning qualities must change between each infusion — at first the saliva generation may be prominent, then gradually the returning sweetness emerges.
As time passes and bitterness fades, can the saliva generation reach the realm of “a spring bubbling beneath the tongue,” and can the returning sweetness achieve a mellow, profound depth? A quality new Pu-erh tea, whether raw or ripe, must already display good layered complexity in its new-tea stage. This layered transformation is the key to whether a new Pu-erh tea can withstand the test of time.
If a tea shows minimal change from start to finish across infusions, tasting flat and bland in the mouth, or if its changes are chaotic and unordered, then even after many years it will hardly be recognized as a quality aged tea.
Regarding the viscosity of Pu-erh tea
The term “viscosity” refers to thickness with a certain sticky quality. For Pu-erh tea, it describes whether its water-soluble substances are abundant — that is, whether components such as tea polyphenols, amino acids, fructose, and pectin are rich. Viscosity is primarily revealed through the tea liquor’s entry into the mouth.
After brewing a cup of tea, you can immediately judge its viscosity as the liquor enters your mouth. Quality Pu-erh tea, whether raw or ripe, must already exhibit excellent viscosity in its new-tea stage. Viscosity can also be described as oral richness and oral impact. A quality new Pu-erh tea, upon entering the mouth, if it fills the mouth with rich aroma, rapidly generates saliva and returning sweetness, and the palate perceives a wealth of flavors, can be considered to have superior viscosity.
Among tea drinkers, there is the expression “the mouth is full of tea” — this is a wonderful description of viscosity. After drinking a mouthful, you can truly taste the tea’s character. Many premium Pu-erh producing regions produce teas with excellent viscosity, such as Banzhang tea, whose oral richness and impact are first-rate. From the moment it enters your mouth, you can easily identify it as Banzhang tea by its mouthfeel and aroma alone.
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Author: Old Tea Head · Lin Shen (LamSam)
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